‘Ali Akbari’s collection opens our eyes to Afghan cultural and dress practices that are often hidden from view in the West. In Afghan culture, families of only daughters can decide to turn a daughter into a son for period of time where she dresses and acts as a boy and thus is allowed more freedom, until she hits the age of marriage and is then forced back into a cultured and gendered template that is completely new to her identity. Ali introduces a layer to gender narratives and shows an Afghan point of view, whereby gender roles are assigned beyond biology. His collection provides layers of hybridity where both garments and genders are merged. With handwork, beading and tailoring Ali propose a courageous collage that speaks volumes on how garments can act as vehicles for freedom.’